Day 1: We meet at Skaftárskáli (restaurant/gas station) at 09:00 in the morning to take a scheduled bus at 09:30. The bus takes us to the 135 craters of Laki, and from there we begin our hike. First we cross the enormous lava fields of the Eldhraun (Lava of Fire) some of which are completely covered with thick green moss, offering the perfect opportunity to take a welcome break on this natural carpet. Camping by the lake of Fremri-Eyrar or north of Innri Eyrar depending on conditions.
Distance: 10-15km (7-9mi)
Walking time: 5-7hrs
Day 2: The next morning the river Hverfisfljót has to be avoided by crossing its outlet on the Síðujökull glacier, before heading East. We enjoy a great view towards the grand red craters of the Rauðhólar crater row. Our route then takes us through or above the Fossahraun desert at the foot of the splendid Síðujökull glacier where it will be necessary to cross several streams with swift current, or eventually climbing up on the glacier to avoid them. We camp on the banks of the Djúpá River south of the Síðujökull moraines with the green slopes of Gæsabringur just at the other side of the river
Distance: 15-18km (9-11mi)
Walking time: 7-9hrs
Day 3: To avoid the strong current of the Djúpá river, we are required to go up the Síðujökull and cross a relatively flat part of that enormous glacier. Once across we head to the red crater of Eldgígur. The next hurdle on our way is one higher branches of Djúpá before we head up the glacier carved hill dominating the Beinadalur valley (Bone Valley). There, however, or effort is rewarded with ideal campsites that can be found along the edge of relatively recent lava fields, with magnificent panoramic views towards the Vatnajökull glacier and its highest summits. Additionally, only minutes’ walk from our camp is a fantastic hot spring to bathe in!
Distance: 15-18km (9-11mi)
Walking time: 6-8hrs
Day 4: The Núpsá River runs down Beinadalur, towards a series of canyons and waterfalls. At their junction with another stream is the infamous “Bone Pointe” or Beinatangi, where, sheep have perished during autumn storms, leaving scattered bones like warning signs. Below the gorges, we are greeted by the Sléttur plains that could be radiant with violet willow herb flourishing.
Distance: 10-15km (6-9mi)
Walking time: 7-9hrs
Day 5: The day starts by exploring some very interesting rocks of pillow lava and rock cauldrons. Leaving the canyon, we descend into the Súludalur valley with its picturesque landmark Súla (the Pillar). The valley is abruptly cut off by recent passages of Skeiðarárjökull Glacier, thus the trail is turns down to the wooded Núpsstaðarskógar valley. Enclosed by the rivers Núpsá and Súla and covered with Arctic birch, this valley is like a desert oasis.
Distance: 12-18km (7-11mi)
Walking time: 6-7hrs
Day 6: After passing the magnificent waterfalls of Tvílitihylur, we head up along the neatly sculpted canyons of the lower part of Núpsá river. A short climb leads us up to the deeper part of the canyons with walls up to 200 m high. Camping is on the Sléttur lava plains.
Distance: 15-20km (9-12mi)
Walking time: 6-7hrs
Day 7: Crossing plains pink with Arctic River Beauty flowers, we start to climb the hills towards Grænalón glacier lagoon. After ascending the Eggjar hills, the view opens over the lagoon where it lies between the mountains with floating icebergs. Our campsite is north of the lake, with a spectacular view over the enormous glacier tongue of Skeiðarárjökull, streaming down towards the plains and covering almost 1600 km².
Distance: 18-22km (11-14mi)
Walking time: 6-7hrs
Day 8: This day is devoted to the crossing of Skeiðarárjökull, from Grænafjall Mountain to Norðurdalur valley, an area surrounded by ice and high mountain ridges. Almost a whole day is required to traverse the 15-km of ice, before standing again on solid ground in the hinterland of Skaftafell National Park. Waiting for us is a magnificent camping with view over the several glacier lakes with floating icebergs and colored rhyolite mountains in the background.
Distance: 18-22km (11-14mi)
Walking time: 7-8hrs
Day 9: After some climbing to a narrow mountain ridge, one is able to admire the view to the yellowish rhyolite valley of Kjós at the other side as well as to Iceland’s highest mountain the Hvannadalshnúkur. Descending into the valley of Morsárdalur, the vegetation becomes progressively more abundant. The beautiful Arctic birch forest of Bæjarstaðarskógur welcomes us before we continue to the main camp site of the national park.
Distance: 20-25km (12-16mi)
Walking time: 7-8hrs